shouting in the rear. Some heaps of stone a little in advance
presented an interesting prospect by way of a terminus. However, the
horses were luckily captured before the wheel was off again; and our
ambassador being now returned, we were set right and again proceeded.
I must not forget to remark that at every post where we changed horses
and drivers, we had a pitched battle with the driver for more money
than we had been told was the regular rate, and the carriage was
surrounded with a perfect mob of ragged, shock-headed, black-eyed
people, whose words all ended in "ino," and who raved and ranted at us
till finally we paid much more than we ought, to get rid of them.
At the gates of Rome the official, after looking at our passports,
coolly told the doctor that if he had a mind to pay him five francs he
could go in without further disturbance, but if not he would keep the
baggage till morning. This form of statement had the recommendation of
such precision and neatness of expression that we paid him forthwith,
and into Rome we dashed at two o'clock in the morning of the 9th of
February, 1857, in a drizzling rain.
We drove to the Hotel d'Angleterre,--it was full,--and ditto to four
or five others, and in the last effort our refractory wheel came off
again, and we all got out into the street. About a dozen lean, ragged
"corbies," who are called porters and who are always lying in wait for
travelers, pounced upon us.
Pages:
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336