We went to the morning service. The church is very large, and the
colors taken in battle are hung on the walls. Some of them are so old
as to be moth-eaten. The service is performed, as near as possible, in
imitation of the service before a battle. The drum beats the call to
assemble, and the common soldiers march up and station themselves in
the centre of the church, under the commander. All the services are
regulated by the beat of the drum. Only one priest officiates, and
soldiers are stationed around to protect him. The music is from a
brass band, and is very magnificent.
"In the afternoon I went to vespers in the Madeleine, where the music
was exquisite. They have two fine organs at opposite ends of the
church. The 'Adeste Fidelis' was sung by a single voice, accompanied
by the organ, and after every verse it was taken up by male voices and
the other organ and repeated. The effect was wonderfully fine. I have
always found in our small churches at home that the organ was too
powerful and pained my head, but in these large cathedrals the effect
is different. The volume of sound rolls over, full but soft, and I
feel as though it must come from another sphere.
"In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Bunsen called. He is a son of Chevalier
Bunsen, and she a niece of Elizabeth Fry,--very intelligent and
agreeable people."
Under date of January 25, Mrs. Stowe writes from Paris:--"Here is a
story for Charley.
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